The journey was an epic one by bus. Vilcabamba is on the complete opposite end of Ecuador from where I live now. I was due in Vilcabamba for a meeting of the working group I'm on GAD. I didn't realize how far away it was when we agreed it was okay to meet there. Turns out 3 of us living in the Province of Emeraldas and it was a FAR journey for us. However, I don't think I would have made it to the "Valley of Longevity" without the call to the meeting.
Vilcabamba has the reputation for having people live for up to 120 years, which is why it is known as the "Valley of Longevity". I couldn't wait to see it in all of it's glory.
After taking an 8 hour overnight bus to Guayaquil, a 5 hour bus from Guayaquil to Cuenca another 5 hour bus to from Cuenca to Loja and another hour bus to Vilcabamba we had arrived.
Everyone stayed at the fabulous hosteria of Izcayluma which is owned by a couple of German brothers. It was a BEAUTIFUL location with fabulous perks. It had a pool, private and dorm rooms, free breakfast, helpful staff, the list goes on. I would definitely recommend this place if you go to Vilcabamba. Plus we were there for a meeting as I said and it was a great location for groups to meet be it on the hammock laced patios or the welcoming restaurant with a fabulous view.
We spent a lot of the time in the Hosteria since it was such a great open aire space to be. However we DID venture down to the town square. For me this is when things took a turn.
The main square is pretty much overtaken by people that are not from Ecuador! It was a shock. Most of the people we met were from Europe or the United states. People have opened smoothie shops (with deliciously healthy smoothies), bought and started owning hotels and land. It went from a shock to a feeling of discomfort for me when I found out about some of the people and it didn't seem like they were there to enjoy the Ecuadorian culture and explore what has made this the land of Longevity but instead people just taking advantage of the situation. Some people we found that lived there for years hadn't bothered to learn any of the language. This always rubs me the wrong way just because as English speakers especially we always expect other people to speak English and usually without an accent. It seems somewhat imposing to move to a place because you like what they have to offer but yet aren't willing to stretch and learn what you can about the culture.
Hey learning Spanish is Hard I get it. My Spanish after 2 years is not great, BUT it has improved and it would be hard no to if your'e interacting with the locals because when your submerged in a culture you pick it up. So what that says to me is people are moving there but then moving the local people out. The restaurants were more expensive and things seemed targeted to a more European/American culture food wise as well. No almuerzos or comida tipico.
Don't get me wrong it was enjoyable, but at the same time as a group that has been trained to ingrate and we have lived with local families and know how they think and feel, you start to take that on yourself and almost identify with them more than people who come from the same country you do!
I was very sensitive to the fact that the money these people were making didn't seem to be going back to the local community. Higher prices for food and for a place to stay mean soon the people are born there can't afford to stay there and are wedged out to the margin and Vilc becomes an elite exclusive environment. Am I jumping to conclusions? Maybe, I tend to, but I think everyone in the situation could benefit if both parties worked together. The Ecuadorians and the Expats. However, as one volunteer was telling me, he knew an Ecuadorian man that was selling his farm land to retire to Cuenca. He said he could sell i to another Ecuadorian but he'd rather wait for a Foreigner to offer him twice what it's worth and live off of that.
Soooo everyone has to be on the same page of preserving and respecting the culture so that both parties can live harmoniously. This was just my outside view and opinion by the way I don't want to be negative, but I don't want to see something so beautiful and pure be robbed, or dashed because people didn't think of preservation.
All in all (rant over) the trip was great, Vilcabamaba was Beautiful. I wish we had more time to enjoy the sites and hikes but we were working and I don't know when I'm going to get on a bus for that long again! I know I will go back though because I met some great people and wonderful artisans that I would like to buy jewelry and souvenirs from.
I would recommend Vilcabamba for it's beauty and nature, and if you're looking for an authentic Ecuadorian experience the people of the town are there, just outside of the main square. The people in the town that have started businesses are groovy peaceful as well, it will just have more a touristy feel but also a positive warm experience.
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Hey Jcov!!! Bienvenido a Vilcabamba y la provincia de Loja! Aww, too bad it wasn't last year, lol...we could've entertained you in Loja! Vilcabamba and the Izhcayluma are beautiful huh? But in addition to beautiful views and nice hikes, it is definitely the land of expats, conspiracy theorists, and raw foodies (and yes, there are several who don't speak any Spanish...we occasionally encountered them at the post office, Supermaxi, or other parts of Loja). It's definitely different! Glad you got a chance to relax and enjoy southern Ecuador though! Looks like the weather was gorgeous!!
When the Americans come looking for the unbought grace of life, the unbought grace of life vanishes. Why? Because the Americans simply are soft--they have an allergy to true simplicity and noble poverty; they are materialists and even their spirituality is materialistic and narcissistic. They are incapable of existing in peace, they are forever greedy for experiences, for novelty. The exceptions to this are very rare.
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